The first time most visitors see the pampas grass rippling in unison across the ridge, they fall silent. The Yeongnam Alps is a mountain range straddling Ulsan, Miryang, and Yangsan, where a succession of summits rises to around 1,000 m above sea level. At its centre, the Ganwoljae plateau transforms into one of Korea's most sought-after trekking destinations every October, drawing hikers from across the country.
Why October
The best time to see the pampas grass (eoksae) in the Yeongnam Alps runs from late September through early November. The peak bloom window is generally considered to be 10–20 October. From late October into early November, the pampas is slightly past its peak, but autumn foliage begins to colour the ridgelines, adding a richness and variety to the scenery that can actually surpass the pure silver display of mid-October. Because colour descends from higher to lower elevations, late October offers a two-layer experience: autumn leaves in the villages at the mountain's base and swaying pampas grass along the ridges above.
Ganwoljae Pampas Plateau — The Heart of the Route
Ganwoljae is the defining landmark of any Yeongnam Alps trek. Sitting at roughly 900 m above sea level in Icheon-ri, Sangbuk-myeon, Ulju-gun, it is regarded as one of Korea's largest pampas grass colonies, with the grassland covering 50,000 pyeong. Between September and November the plateau is smothered in pampas that shifts between gold and silver in the changing light. The site is also known as the location where the paragliding scene in the opening episode of the Korean drama *Crash Landing on You* was filmed; paragliding experiences are available in the area for visitors who want to try it themselves.
From Ganwoljae, when the view opens up, a seemingly endless pampas ridgeline stretches toward Sinbulsan. The full Sinbulsan pampas plateau covers 338 ha at elevations around 1,000 m, making it one of the largest high-altitude pampas colonies in the country.
Route Overview
Trekking centred on Ganwoljae divides broadly into two options. The first approaches Ganwoljae from the Baenaegol valley side, following a forestry road with a gentle gradient well suited to taking in the pampas scenery at a relaxed pace. The second departs from the Bokhap Welcome Centre (near Alpsoncheon 5-gil, Sangbuk-myeon, Ulju-gun), passes through Ganwoljae, and continues along the ridge through Ganwolsan, Sinbulsan, and on to Yeongchuksan. This ridge traverse is an intermediate-to-advanced route of approximately 15 km taking around six hours, rewarded by sweeping panoramas of pampas grass lining the ridge from end to end.
Getting There
By public transport, the standard approaches from Ulsan Station are bus 328 toward the deer farm (Sasum Nongjang) or buses 304 and 232 toward the Bokhap Welcome Centre. A taxi from Ulsan Station takes roughly 30 minutes and costs approximately ₩19,000. By car, Baenae 2 Public Parking Lot (near the Korean Deer Farm) is the most commonly used option, though on pampas-season weekends spaces fill up from early in the morning. The Bokhap Welcome Centre car park is reported to have more room, though that trailhead involves a slightly more demanding route.
Tips Before You Go
Because of the exposed highland ridge, temperatures are lower and winds considerably stronger than at lower elevations — the same conditions that keep the pampas short and wiry. A light down jacket or windproof layer is essential gear in October. Unpaved and gravelled sections are common throughout, so hiking boots and long trousers are strongly recommended. Weekend visits during peak bloom bring large crowds; a weekday visit offers a noticeably quieter experience.
