Marado — the southernmost island of Jeju — is often remembered simply as "that island where you eat jajangmyeon." But anyone who visits in September knows a different side of it: the island in early autumn wears an entirely different face.
Why September
Autumn on Marado begins with the pampas grass. September is when the grass starts to stir — among the lush green meadows that cover the island, silver-tipped stalks begin to push through, hinting at what is to come. Peak color arrives in October, but September marks the turning point: the fierce summer heat gives way to a cool, gentle breeze. With the height-of-summer crowds gone, the island feels noticeably quieter, and on clear days the color of the sea appears sharper and more vivid than ever.
Where Pampas Grass and Sea Overlap
Walking the coastal trail that circles Marado, you can settle onto a bench on the northwest hillock — Bench Hill — and take in the sea framed on all sides by pampas grass. The scene of sunlit silver grass against deep blue water, captured in a single view, is what visitors who time their trip to this season tend to remember most. Along the east-side coastal path, the grass, sea, sky, and clouds all layer together in one panorama; on a windy day you can watch the stalks whip and scatter dramatically. As October approaches, the grass gradually yellows, creating an even starker contrast with the blue water below.
The coastal trail loops the full perimeter of the island and takes roughly an hour at a leisurely pace. Along the way you pass basalt cliffs, a lighthouse, a small Catholic church, Giwonjeongsa temple, and the southernmost-point monument. Turning left after stepping off the ferry pier takes you past the lighthouse and church before reaching the monument.
Getting There
Ferries to Marado depart from two points on the western side of Jeju: Unjin Port (Moseulpo) and a pier near Songaksan. Crossing time varies by departure point; from Unjin Port the crossing is generally around 30 minutes. Schedules and fares change with the season and weather conditions, so it is essential to check directly with the ferry operator the day before you travel. Sailings are frequently cancelled when a strong-wind advisory is in effect, so build flexibility into your itinerary.
What to Know Before You Go
Marado is small, and the number of cafés and restaurants is limited. Marado-style jajangmyeon (black-bean noodles) is the island's signature dish, available at several eateries, but queues can grow long around lunchtime. A relaxed approach is to arrive on an early ferry, complete the coastal walk first, and eat afterward. The shoreline in September can be windier than expected, so bring a light outer layer. The color contrast between the pampas grass and the sea is far more striking on a clear day than an overcast one, making it worth checking the forecast and choosing your day carefully.
