Jodo (鳥島 — 'Bird Island,' named for its abundant birdlife) sets its own pace from the moment you board the ferry at Jindo. In September, the midday sun still bites, but the wind has unmistakably shifted. Out in the fields, the first silver grass stalks are just beginning to straighten and sway.
Why September — and the Timing of Silver Grass
Silver grass is usually associated with October, but it begins its season in late September. Records from Jeju's Sanbangsan Crater (Sangumburi) show that while visitors start arriving in late September, the grass is only in its earliest, downy stage at that point; a true golden wave does not form until mid-October. In other words, the silver grass calendar follows a pattern of 'late-September preview, mid-October peak.' Jodo's silver grass is likely to follow the same general Korean blooming pattern. A visit in late September will catch the very first flush of growth; coming in early-to-mid October should reward you with the full spectacle of grass rippling in the wind.
What to See and Do
Jodo is an archipelago centered on Sangjodo and Hajodo, surrounded by numerous smaller islands. The terrain is not flat — low hills meet the coastline throughout — so as you walk, open sea views and inland meadows take turns appearing before you. When silver grass colonizes these slopes, the island's sea wind sweeps the whole mass down and up again in one continuous motion. Beyond the grass itself, walking the coastal paths or spending unhurried time in one of the small fishing villages is reason enough to make the trip. September is also the period after the summer crowds have gone, leaving the island noticeably quieter.
Getting There
Jodo belongs to Jindo County (Jindo-gun), South Jeolla Province. Ferries depart from Paengmok Port (also referred to as Jindo Port) on Jindo. Schedules and fares vary by season and operator, so check the latest information before you leave — the Korea Shipping Association's 'Islands to Visit' website (가고 싶은 섬) or the Jindo County tourism office are reliable sources. Transport options within the island are limited, so plan your itinerary around walking or cycling.
Tips Before You Go
If peak silver grass is your goal, early-to-mid October is a stronger bet than late September. The grass looks its finest when the wind is blowing, so aim for a clear, breezy day. Amenities on the island are more limited than on the mainland, so bring plenty of food, snacks, and water. Weekday visits mean less crowding on both the ferry and the island itself. Perhaps the greatest draw of Jodo in September is not the silver grass alone, but the particular feeling of being on an island at the exact moment autumn is beginning.
